 Log-book
- Thursday Juli 3 Stefan Blomberg from BC: "The weather has improved. Today we have had a prefect day! Following a few days of needed rest, Johan and Magnus climbed up to C2. On saturday they will begin to build in the Japanese couloir. If the weather doesn't get worse, and they don’t get sick, Johan and Magnus won’t return to BC untill they have tried to reach to top once. It should be possible to reach the summit within a week! Florin is still feeling too ill to follow the other to the top. Today Florin and Bob (from the Brittish expedition) went up towards C1. Florin was carrying the rope which will be used when the couloir, between C2 and C3, is under construction. They were also carrying some canned food. Neither Florin or Bob managed to reach C1, they were forced to dump the equipement at the American dump camp and return to BC. We are forced to hire a highcarrying sherpas who will carry the equipement up to C1, together with Florin and Bob. After that, Florin will return to BC. The couloir between C2 and C3 could be described as two furrows, where the walls are made of cliffs. Snow is gathered in the furrows where they are climbing. The furrows are 700-800 meters and at a 70 to 90 degree angle. If the snow is solid, they will use snow anchors, if there’s any risk of slide, they will be using wedges and clips. A rope is attached through the couloir to be used for climbing. C2 is located at the beginning of the couloir and C3 is on the top. The last couple of bad weather have made it difficult to reach the summit. None of the expeditions in the area have yet climbed up to C3, even though there are a lot of expeditions around (14). The reason why there are so many expeditions, is that they are celebrating the independence year. The first ones who may begin to build in the couloir is the Japanese expedition. They have hired "super-sherpas" climbers from the Everest area. If we will be buildning by our selfes or sharing the ropes, we haven’t decided yet. Yesterday, we were invited to dinner to the American expedition. They were serving Mexican burritos and cider! After weeks of rice, poweded mashed potatoes, soups, tunafish, sardines, jelly, pudding, cheese cakes, omelletes etc, it was a nice change and it tasted gread! We have been forced to eat the canned ham (we brought it from Sweden) with our pocket knifes - our cook refuses to wash the dishes since the ham is pork…" |
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