 Log-book
- Monday Juli 7 Stefan Blomberg from BC: Chaotic day ! Attempt to reach the summit begins tomorrow !
Report: 8.00 am "Weather prognosis delayed due to problems with the internet link. Earlier prognosis indicated snow on thursday 10/7. If that is the case we truely need to hurry up to the summit! A definite plan on when to climb the summit is still in progress since we haven't yet recieved the latest weather prognosis. A unexpected snow storm could be devastating. At extreme altitudes (>7000 m.) winds of up to 160 m/s can occur."
Report: 12.00 am "The situation in the basecamp is currently somewhat chaotic... the problem is Florins altitude sickness. The planning for the attempt to the summit and the delayed weather prognosis have caused a stressful situation... Florin is suffering from altitude sickness - today he was breathing heavy, he neither wanted to eat or drink. Which causes him to become undernourished. If he is not better within a couple of days it will be necessary to send him down to lower elevations (below 3600 m.), and eventually with a emergency helicopter. To insure ourselves we have contacted SOS International and made sure that all permits are in order to get us a helicopter when needed. We are still not sure how quick a helicopter can get here or where it will come from. At the same time we are checking to make sure that Florins insurence papers are all in order... If Florin has to stay in the basecamp it will then be necessary to administer intravenous drop. At the present time Florin is lying in a gamow-bag... Besides Florins problems I am helping other expedition members with a eye problem etc... A definite plan for the summit had to be delayed due to a lack of a weather prognosis." ( The interview with Stefan by Radio Stockholm had to be delayed due to treatment of various people.)
Report 4.00pm "Florin is starting to feel better ! Currently it is not necessary with either helicopter, gammobag or intravenous drip. He can probably walk down himself to lower altitudes, although he will probably not be able to stay until the planned date of return. We finally recieved the weather prognosis. According to it the weather is supposed to be fairly nice until thursday night, then we are expecting snow. Therefore Johan and Magnus have decided to attempt the summit has soon as possible, so that they can be back at C3, C2 or preferably C1 when the snow comes. From BC to C1 they are basiclly climbing "alpinist style", with other words, they carry up equipement in several trips, and rest in between. From C1 to C2, C3 and all the way to the top they will be climbing alpinist style. Which means that they will be carrying that equipement that is needed up to higher camps directly without rest.
Plans for the summit:
Johan and Magnus are climbing alone. During the attempt for the summit: We will have constant radio contact at 6.00, 9.00 am and 12.00 am. after that once every other hour ubtil they attempt the summit. During this time will try to get out as many reports as possible on the website."
The Trekking group: The trekking group has arrived to the basecamp. All members of the group are doing just fine, they will leave the basecamp early tomorrow morning, latest wednesday.
Comments: Gamo-bag and altitude sickness A gammo-bag is like a mobile, inflatable pressure chamber. The bag is used to prevent altitude sickness by "simulating" a descendence to lower altitudes. The person with altitude sickness is placed in the bag and it is filled with air. When the pressure increases in the bag the oxygen level increases. Following 10 min. in the bag is the air pressure is equivelant to 900-1500 m. After an hour the person is restored. "Restoration" lasts up to 12 hours. In most cases this is enough to climb down to lower altitudes. Altitude sickness can show several signs - lack of oxygen, frostbite, lowered judgement capacity, dizziness, difficulty in eating and drinking, vomitting, unconsciousness. Altitude sickness can occur at 2 400 m. Lung- and brain edema can occur at 4000-5000 m., unconsciousness above 6 000 m. Above 7 000 m it is impossible to carry out any heavier work loads during a longer period of time. Ones hunger feeling dissappears. One should not be at extreme heights for periods longer than a week.
High altitudes Heights above 2 400 m. are usually called "high altitude". High altitudes are divided into the following catagories: High altitude: 2 400-4 300
meters Air-pressure at 5 300 m is about half of that in comparison to air-pressure at sea-level The air temperature drops 1 C every 150 m. At extreme heights winds up to 160 m/s are not uncommon and temperatures at night can drop below -30 C. |
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Tuesday morning, 6.00 am, climbing via alpinist style up
to C3. (apx. 7 000 m.) through the corridor. Climbing up
to 7-8 hours. Should be at C3 around 2.00-3.00 pm.